The Fat Lady

Situated in an old building that was reputed to be a brothel at one time, the Fat Lady rests on a corner just a few blocks from the water in Oakland’s Jack London Square. Named after a painting of a plump pro that had taken up residence there in the late 1800’s, today the place is a bustling bar and restaurant packed with a different kind of professionals.

Larry the daytime bartender – an Oakland legend with over thirty years behind the wood – is proud and poised to talk about the Pride and Poise boys – the Oakland Raiders – at any time. He is also keen at keeping me apprised of family members and friends. “Seen my uncle?” “Not in about two months.” “How about Jack?” “Saw him yesterday.”

Drinks are as stiff as those visiting the coroner’s office around the corner. Most patrons there have a penchant for the clear stuff, either up or on the rocks. A small cooler behind the bar houses a few bottled beers.

Food is excellent with mainstays being a Grilled Crab Sandwich, Crab Cakes, Shrimp Louie, and a New York Steak Sandwich on Sourdough with crispy onion rings. No dinner is served on Sunday and Monday nights.

Opened in 1970 by a family that still runs the bar and restaurant today, parking is fairly easy with the street metered and a large multi-level lot across the street. A movie theatre also across the street makes the Fat Lady a good call before or after a film.

Some weekdays there is the bizarre ritual of a lingerie show, something I have never understood as a part of bar tradition. But it does seem to bring out the old-timers and their thirst for the clear spirit, and with the building’s history of ill repute I guess it kind of works.

Normally decked out in Barbary Coast décor with tiffany lamps, beveled and stained glass, old brewery art, and a big turn of the century oak bar that is fitting of its heritage and location, no bar celebrates the holidays like the Fat Lady. Always dressed up, the Fat Lady becomes even gaudier at Halloween, Christmas, Mardi Gras or any major drinking holiday with a huge array of decorative items.

Any day can be a holiday at this lively bar, but it is during a holiday when the Fat Lady sings.

D. M.

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