Musso and Frank is not a new Disney animated feature about the misadventures of two lovable talking animals. It is, in fact, “the oldest restaurant in Hollywood”, and in a city where most people fib about their age, Musso & Frank Grill is justifiably proud of its 85 years.

Now I’ll admit, this is not breaking news; Musso & Frank’s has long been a hangout for screenwriters and assorted celebrities. When The Writer’s Guild was located nearby on Cherokee; the Hollywood Boulevard eatery became a favorite watering hole of F. Scott Fitzgerald, William Faulkner and Raymond Chandler.

After a few sips of a carefully stirred Martini at the bar, located in the main dinning room, you almost sense Chandler in one of the worn red leather booths writing the line, “From 30 feet away she looked like a lot of class. From 10 feet away she looked like something made up to be seen from 30 feet away.” The same can be said for Musso & Frank, which in the light of day shows signs of wear around the edges, but that only adds to the character and charm of the place.

Established in 1919, originally owned by John Musso and Frank Toulet, the dark and modestly clubby atmosphere of this Hollywood landmark moves along at its own pace like the best film noir of the 40’s. It is no coincidence that at times, the room feels more like a movie set than an actual restaurant. Although the red-jacketed bartenders are not actors, they are skilled craftsmen who prepare classic cocktails with as much ease as Philip Marlowe rolls a cigarette or handles a leggy brunette with a wicked jaw.

Musso & Frank maintains many of the qualities from Tinseltown’s past including wood-paneled walls, high-sided mahogany booths, Martinis pored with sidecars (a personal favorite touch) and a menu of meat-and-potato staples like steaks, chops and chicken potpie. But don’t be fooled by the yesteryear surroundings, the prices are very current, and with an a la carte menu, the bill can sneak up on you faster than that second Manhattan. It is often difficult to get a seat at the bar but well worth the attempt. In the ever-changing and reinvigorated Hollywood, it is nice that some places are gracefully acting their age. – C.M.