Cue the theme to the Godfather. Walk under the street to this most interesting of Italian places in a city full of wonderful Italian places and swear that you see Tom Hagen pouring Vino for you in a small glass at the bar on the right. Ask Michael or Sonny if you can get a place to sit for dinner. Such is Il Vagabondo.

Ironically enough, it is located barely into the Upper East Side (Lenox Hill). Granted a place to sit, one is escorted down more stairs into the basement eating area. A bocce ball court is alive and well and living in the middle of the restaurant with active play. You must be six feet under by now.

As you would expect, the Vino is good and cheap. The dishes are filling and well prepared. You’d be “frekin’ nuts” not to have the Osso Bucco or the Veal Parmaigiana. You won’t go wrong with the pasta dishes. Or you can have both. Although if you know what is good for you, you’d better listen to the specials from the kitchen.

I swear on my first visit, I had to put cash in the front pocket of our host. However Il Vagabondo now conveniently takes credit cards. I assume anyone’s credit cards.

This is a great New York experience for lunch or dinner. This place is easy to get to, but difficult to leave. D.M.