The late but legendary San Francisco Chronicle columnist and city ambassador (although he was actually born in Sacramento) Herb Caen used to expound the joys of The City with one exception: Fisherman’s Wharf. He once even proposed a trade for Oakland’s Jack London Square. I assume the City Fathers of Oakland must have been holding out for the Transamerica Pyramid.

Most locals agree that, with the exception of the Buena Vista, Fisherman’s Wharf is for tourists and the rest of The City is for residents. But another viable stop has immerged at the base of Columbus Street across from the Cannery that is worthy of a visit to San Francisco’s natural water park if you can stand walking by another shop selling ceramic cable car ornaments.

Fiddler’s Green is a small, split level Irish bar that is easy to miss. In the morning, metered street parking can usually be found on the street but those spaces usually ebb as the night goes on. Downstairs is the better of the two levels. The Irish bartenders are friendly and man (or woman) the 14-seat U-shaped bar anchored by 12 tap handles. Legend has it that this is the number one Guinness account in San Francisco.

The downstairs jukebox – one of the better ones in San Francisco – is laced with Irish music, but also has everything pop from ABBA to Zevon. The vibe changes at night as the upstairs becomes a club and a cover charge is required at the door. DJ’s play dancing tunes for the yuppie crowd until the 2am closing.

But the real attraction is the food. Irish standards like Sheppard’s Pie, Corned Beef and Cabbage and a variety of stews are part of the menu. Opening at 9am daily, the Irish breakfast may be the most imperative part of the menu, especially if this is your second stop (Fiddler’s is one block from the BV). Eating at the bar is hassle free, as the kitchen is about three meters from the tap handles.

While Fiddler’s Green is enjoyable anytime, there is something nice about visiting it on a weekend morning, as the Bay fog and your head clears. A pint of Guinness, a newspaper, time to build a plan for enjoying the rest of your day in The City, and a very satisfying bite to eat away from the hording masses grabbing walk-up crab cocktail and loaves of sourdough bread. It is a good thing that as places to eat in Fisherman’s Wharf goes; Fiddler’s Green doesn’t fiddle with the cuisine. – D. M.