Sinatra. Elvis. Fabio. (Well, maybe not Fabio). Greatness defined by one name. New York has a few such places. But no single name personifies New York in my mind quite like a number. ‘21′

‘21′ Club, as it is formally known but never referred, began as a Prohibition time speakeasy that hid under the street from the Feds. Legend has it that the extensive wine cellar was actually secretly kept next door at 19 W. 52nd Street and never found by law enforcement.

Today, when you walk down the stairs and enter ‘21′, you are greeted as if entering an exclusive club. You walk though the lounge of couches and chairs to get to the Bar Room. The “bar” is for standing and drinking and the “room” is for sitting and dining. Wait staff wear white jackets and black ties. The cocktail is prepared with great seriousness by a staff that has done this a time or two.

Now granted, there is this little game that I invented at ‘21′ called “you won’t believe what that round just cost.” With drink prices that median in the mid-teens, this place is not for the faint of heart or the lean of wallet. But ‘21′ is a classic, an ageless below-the-ground bar and restaurant where gentlemen must wear jackets and ties, the veteran service is flawless, and the crowd is New York City powerful.

The food is impeccable in an American classic way but like the drinks, very expensive. I defy anyone not to shake his or her head in surprise and awe at the price of the famous ‘21′ burger.

The ceiling of the Bar Room is made up of a collection of toys and memorabilia that one would expect to find at an upscale flea market, not an upscale restaurant. Planes, trucks, hard hats, sporting equipment, tankards, shoes, and signs all hang in orderly haphazardness. I remember being perplexed at the sight the first time I entered ’21.’ But for some inexplicable reason, it works perfectly.

They say every toy in the Bar Room has a story. Certainly if the walls could talk, you know they would have a tale or two as well. You have not been to New York City if you have not been to ‘21′. – D.M.