When most people think of Oakland, they refer to the sprawling flatlands, where most of the crime and industrial commerce takes place, and the Coliseum Complex where the Raiders, A’s and Golden State Warriors call home. Those in the know, however, realize that there is a charming district of hills, trees, expensive homes and small proprietorships in the Oakland Hills called Montclair. The anchor bar/restaurant of Montclair is a place called Crogan’s.
Bob Gattis ran Crogan’s since its inception over 25 years ago. On the popular corner of LaSalle Avenue and Mountain Boulevard, Crogan’s has served the community well becoming a key watering hole for the sports minded and political minded of the area. It has a mix of A’s and Giants fans, Raiders and 49ers fans. But the team of choice is the University of California Golden Bears. Gattis graduated from Cal in 1970.
Pictures of great Golden Bear players and teams spruce up the bar on the right of the entrance. The restaurant is on the left. The bar windows open out to LaSalle which provides for a cooling breeze on many evenings. This is a different layout after a fire gutted the restaurant several years ago.
Despite the fire and consequential lost revenue, Gattis continued to pay his staff. An ice chest of beer was full for friends during reconstruction, although the Chinese food restaurant across the street became a temporary bar for the Crogan’s needy.
It is difficult to go into Crogan’s and not be greeted warmly by the staff, or by Gattis who would shove a shot of Bushmill’s Malt in my hand upon arrival. “Well Mullen’s in town, guess we gotta’ have a Malt!” We would then talk Cal sports or local political issues. He was always in the middle of the bar at Happy Hour, when many of his numerous friends would stop in for a chat.
The bar is always active with the restaurant a little more laid back. The beer selection is solid and the place makes a great Irish Coffee. Food is moderately priced and well prepared. Lunch and dinner are available. The sandwiches are outstanding, with burgers and crab sandwiches a highlight. Depending upon who is behind the bar, your clam chowder may get a splashing of sherry that makes for a nice touch.
Gattis and I met in Arizona one year for the Insight.com Bowl in which the Cal Bears beat Virginia Tech in a very exciting game. We partied at Jackson’s in Phoenix with other Cal alumni, and when the Cal band played on the street outside of the patio, Gattis beamed.
Gattis always bugged me about why Crogan’s wasn’t on GreatJoints.com when it was the first place that I would always visit when I came to Oakland (and sometimes the last). There isn’t always enough time to cover the vast array of worthy places. So finally, Bob, this review is for you. But alas, he will never see it.
Bob Gattis died of a heart attack at age 55 on March 26, 2004. On April 2, hundreds turned out for a celebration of his life with stories of his habitually tardiness, his love for the University of California, and his love of people.
Luckily, the great tradition of the bar and restaurant in the Oakland Hills remains because of a loyal and professional staff and Bob’s family. But my next Bushmill’s Malt at Crogan’s will not be the same. – D.M.