“THERE IS A PLACE in Oakland that leans into the water like the bourbon leans in my glass, occasionally stirring but primarily standing if not tall, upright. A bright sun pleases as it peaks through the fog that clouds the sky and my thoughts.”

Okay, so I am no Jack London. But Heinhold’s First and Last Chance in Oakland’s Jack London Square is tribute to an American classic, while it has become a classic onto itself.

Opening in 1883, Heinhold’s First and Last Chance is reported to be the oldest continuously operating bar in California. Not only has the bar survived Jack London’s infamous drinking bouts – he died at 40 of liver failure – but the 1906 Great San Francisco Earthquake has given the bar a dramatic list that requires glasses on the bar to be held with one hand.

Originally a bunkhouse, Johnny Heinhold bought the place for $100 and turned it into a bar for the men of the sea. Young Jack London, living in the Oakland waterfront, did odd jobs for the bar until later when he would make notes for his literary works under the light of the gas lamps inside. A cabin where London once lived in has been relocated to just a few paces from the saloon’s front door.

A small wooden shack that has been expanded by providing patio seating outside, the First and Last Chance is a must see on any visit to the East Bay. At the east end of Jack London Square, the First and Last Chance is not a local hangout but more of a stop where tourists mingle with bartenders well versed in the area’s history. Usually a few degrees warmer than the other side of the bay, Jack London Square is a pleasant place to walk, admire the boats and possibly stop for a bite at one of the many restaurants.

As part of the renovation of the Square, parking is easy and a Barnes and Noble is now an anchor tenant. After tasting the signature Bloody Mary or hoisting an Anchor Steam beer at Heinhold’s First and Last Chance, one may be inspired to walk over and pick a copy of the Call of the Wild or White Fang. – D.M.