Belt Line Road in Far North Dallas/Addison tends to be a conurbation (I just got a word-of-the-day calendar) of chain restaurants and humorless, bland places of libation. One place stands apart despite the strip mall locale: Cafe Gecko.

Owner Dennis Dial has created an oasis in an otherwise sterile environment. He is the consummate bar owner, who is as handy with a wrench as he is with martini shaker. He has done most of the work inside himself. Messages like the “kitchen is open and close” and “we don’t make any of the beer we sell” reflect the owner’s personality and refusal to conform to typical North Dallas standards.

The place is always hopping, because of an outstanding (and often very attractive) wait staff, pros behind the bar and an abundance of parking outside. A place in Dallas without valet parking is a rare find.

The bar itself is a classic wooden structure picked up from the popular 80’s Oak Lawn establishment called the Wine Press (where now one of Dallas’ best restaurants Al Beirnat’s resides). The kitchen cranks out excellent fare at reasonable prices with fish tacos and orange chicken particular favorites. Lunch is as busy as dinner.

The place has an excellent middle age crowd, especially popular with the North Dallas cell phone and beeper carriers. Solo men and women are treated warmly, so there should be no hesitation to venture in alone. Happy hour on weekdays is from 3 to 7.

Dennis’ wife Kelly updated the place a few years ago with colors reflective of the Caribbean motif. The beer list is extensive with all of the top brands. A Red Stripe matches perfectly with the jerk chicken tacos. A simple ring toss game in the back is the only bar game, and while the TV’s are tuned to sports the sound is replaced by music to make the place more friendly to women.

Cafe Gecko is a break from the Far North Dallas routine. It is a bar that would fit right in any urban neighborhood. D. M.